Various (original: Brunswick East; CBD iteration also closed)
This venue has permanently closed. This review is retained as a personal record of the dining experience at the time of writing.
Pope Joan – Black pudding, truffled polenta, fried egg & cauliflower
Our adoration of Pope Joan over the years could be turned into a novel of epic proportions. Of course, like many great stories, it is easy for our trusted friends to brush off the importance of each visit, or the level of dedication to our work.
Pope Joan omelette
There is dedication and then there is obsession. While the obsession to see what is going down at Pope Joan on a fortnightly basis has dulled, the dedication to visit at least once a season is still burning bright. Matt Wilkinson’s breakfast creations were the first that stunned me, and ever since I have seen some of them matched, but not bettered.
The ones I keep going back for include the crab omelette (although any omelette here is delicious) and anything with black pudding incorporated into the dish. Today, Catherine goes with the special omelette, and I order the black pudding with truffled polenta, cauliflower (including puree) and a fried egg. Both are up to the usual standard and we leave satisfied once again.
For past reviews of Pope Joan, see below:
Breakfast in March 2014Lunch in August 2014
This venue has permanently closed. This review is retained as a personal record of the dining experience at the time of writing.
Doughnut with jam and cream
Pope Joan has changed over the years. Matt Wilkinson’s masterpiece started as a humble breakfast spot before doubling in size with a bar, adding a deli soon after, and doing lunch and dinner too.
I’ve noticed that when you get to the Pope after midday there can be a little confusion given the great selection of non-breakfast dishes. Being handed a wine list as you ask for a coffee and hearing amazing sounding specials when you feel like bacon and eggs is a little odd. Today we have actually come for lunch, but are here before we have started some breakfasts!
The Cornish
It is intentional. I feel like coffee and wine, mains and dessert! Devastation at the latest instalment of the Black Pudding based dish being sold out leads to a nice surprise with the Cornish chicken sandwich proving another fantastic find. The stuffing used gives it a certain luxury and the jalepinos are not overpowering at all.
The Cuban
Catherine opts for the Cuban which is their version of a pulled pork roll. It is spicy like it should be and full of flavour. The pulled pork is just special. It’s something we all know ridiculously well. It’s on every second menu in Melbourne and we keep going back. But trust me, Pope Joan’s is special.
The Heathcote rose we are drinking, using Nebbiolo grapes, is particularly good for washing down anything. It follows my long black, as always nicely made, and Catherine’s sparkling apple from Mornington producer Mock.
This cafe provides a unique experience. There is nowhere else that I feel so utterly compelled to order the rice pudding, or doughnuts to finish. Or the homemade ginger bread, or a macaron! Today it’s the doughnut with jam and cream. It never gets boring having fried dough with sugar, jam and cream. The main difference here is the quite tart jam which means you are having sugar overload without necessarily tasting it.
Whether you are there early or late there is great food and drink here. The staff are always happy and seem to understand they are working in a great place that is cutting edge. Brunswick East is extremely lucky to have Pope Joan to call its own.
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